In the world of natural skincare, not all “handmade” soaps are created equal. Beyond appearance and scent, there are important differences in technique—especially when comparing cold process soapmaking to industrial production. The cold process is a traditional, ingredient-focused method that defines true artisan soap.
Cold Process: Craft, Chemistry, and Patience
Cold process soapmaking involves mixing plant-based oils and butters with a lye solution (sodium hydroxide and water or botanical infusions). No external heat is used—the reaction generates its own warmth and gradually transforms the mixture into soap.
This method preserves the properties of natural ingredients and allows full control over the formulation. In contrast, mass-produced soaps often use pre-made bases or high-heat processing, which can degrade the beneficial components of the oils.
Superfatting: A Built-In Moisturiser
A key feature of cold process soap is superfatting—intentionally leaving a percentage of oils unsaponified. These extra oils remain in the final bar and provide nourishing, moisturizing effects while gently cleansing.
The amount of superfat (usually 5–8%) is precisely calculated based on the oils used and the intended use of the soap, whether for sensitive, dry, or oily skin. This technique helps support the skin’s barrier and avoids the stripping sensation some soaps cause.
Why Curing Time Matters
Once poured into molds, cold process soaps cure for 4 to 6 weeks. During this time, water evaporates naturally, the pH stabilizes, and the soap hardens—resulting in a bar that is milder, longer-lasting, and safe for skin use.
While curing may seem time-consuming, it’s essential for producing a high-quality soap without shortcuts or synthetic hardeners.
Natural Soap vs. “Antibacterial” Claims
Many commercial soaps are marketed as antibacterial, often containing synthetic agents like triclosan or quaternary ammonium compounds. These ingredients can disrupt the skin’s microbiome and contribute to resistance over time.
In reality, properly made natural soaps already clean effectively. The high pH and lather of cold process soap are naturally capable of removing dirt, oils, and most bacteria from the skin’s surface—without the need for harsh chemical additives. Deep cleansing can be achieved with gentle, well-formulated ingredients that respect the skin's balance.
Full Control Over Ingredients
Cold process makers often use local oils, handmade infusions, and minimally processed botanicals. This level of transparency and flexibility allows for ethical sourcing and tailored skin benefits.
In contrast, many commercial soaps are built around standardized formulas, long shelf lives, and low costs—often including synthetic additives, artificial colorants, or fragrance blends that can irritate sensitive skin.
Cold process soapmaking is a slow and intentional method that respects both the user and the ingredients. Through techniques like superfatting and long curing times, artisan soaps deliver real skincare benefits without relying on mass-market shortcuts.
Choosing a true artisan soap means supporting careful formulation, sustainability, and a deep respect for the craft behind every bar. Choose natural!
By Victoria Coronado – Founder of Maya Botanicals